However, our farm will remain open all winter, where you can pick up your orders Monday – Friday.  Our farm schedule as of December 1st is Monday – Friday, 9:00 am – 3:00 pm (closed for lunch 12:00 pm – 1:00 pm)…closed Saturday and Sunday.  Additionally, we will observe Christmas vacation from December 19, 2011 and return on January 16, 2012.

We will continue to take sod orders and make deliveries to your residence or job sites for orders over 2 pallets (130 rolls/910 sqft).  Any orders less than 2 pallets, must be picked up at our Moriarty farm.  And of course, you may pick up any size order at the farm all winter long.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

DID YOU KNOW?

Sod can be laid all winter long.  It will be dormant, however the root system will flourish and grow, and will produce exceptionally green and healthy grass next spring. However, caring for your lawn throughout winter is important for a healthy spring lawn. Click here for more information on winter sod care.

FAQ

Here are some of our best Fall and Winter lawn care tips:

• Aerate. Late Fall and early Winter are good times to aerate your lawn.  This allows air, water and nutrients directly to the root level (all roots need nutrients, water AND air), and opens areas of the soil, helping ward off compaction, which can be tough on roots.

• Fertilize. Lawns become somewhat, but not fully dormant in the winter.  You should fertilize BEFORE this semi-dormancy stage. This will allow the lawn to still receive much needed nutrients it can lack over winter, leading to a much healthier, happier lawn come Spring. Make sure to read the full instructions, and application rates for Fall and Winter.

• Mow (possibly for the last time this season). In New Mexico, our lawns still grow well into November. So don’t put that mower away just yet. Make sure to keep mowing until the yard stops it’s growth period.

• Clean off debris and snow. We don’t get much snow in the Southwest, however, there can be patches of snow in the shade that if left for some time, with wet debris, can smother and kill the grass underneath. Sod still needs oxygen in Winter! If snow is left to pile on grass (not common in South and Central NM, but a possibility in Northern NM) keeping it wet through an extended time, it can turn lawns pink or gray with snow mold.  Spread out any large piles of snow to encourage melting.

• Keep foot traffic to a minimum. There are a few times throughout Winter, that the ground may be frozen or close to it.  When we play and run on grass in these conditions, it can damage it. Keep rough foot traffic to a minimum in the cold Winter months.

• Work out soil compaction. Too much foot traffic on wet Winter grass can compact the soil, which is not a good for turf roots that work hard in Winter.  Compaction can be helped by aerating.  So again, keep foot traffic to a minimum in Winter.

• Reseed before the Winter sets in. Reseeding is a great thing to do in the Fall before the cold Winter temperatures. Attaining good seed germination is difficult for the common homeowner, and seed grades sold at big box stores, is not of the highest quality (ie. lower germination rates).  So if you really want to do some serious seeding work, local landscape contractors can “powerseed”, which distributes seed into machine-made knife-like slits to achieve optimum seed germination. We sell Grade 1 (the best germination rate) Scotts Premium seed in all the same sod varieties we have.

• Get rid of pests and weeds. Fall is the perfect time to treat for weeds, dandelions, bugs, and grubs. Herbicides, pesticides (organic is better) and weed killer are good options to apply before the Winter cold arrives.

If you really want to have a superb lawn in Spring, you must care for it throughout Winter too.  Please feel free to contact us if you have any other questions.

Turf grass is earth smart. Scientists throughout the world are increasingly documenting the significant role of turf, particularly in urban/suburban settings where the removal of turf and other vegetation has amplified problems such as the “urban heat effect.”

In the 1990 Farm Bill, the U.S. Congress noted:

Tree plantings and ground cover, such as low growing dense perennial turf grass sod in urban areas and communities, can aid in reducing carbon dioxide emissions, mitigating the heat island effect and reducing energy consumption, thus contributing to reduce global warming trends.

BENEFITS

According to the Professional Lawn Care Association of America, a thick, healthy lawn has several environmental benefits including:

OXYGEN

625 square feet of lawn provides enough oxygen for one person for an entire day.

TEMPERATURE

On a block of eight average houses, front lawns have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning.

POLLUTION

Turf absorbs gaseous pollutants such as carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide, converting them to oxygen.

DUST AND DIRT

Turf traps an estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released annually into the atmosphere.

FIRE RETARDATION

A buffer zone of grass around buildings helps retard the spread of fire.

WATER QUALITY

Turf prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater and reduces runoff.

VALUE, CURB APPEAL & PERSONAL ENJOYMENT

Not only is sod good for the environment, it will add value and improve the curb appeal of your property. The increased attention your property gets after a makeover will move a house quicker if you’re in the market to sell. Or, if you are not selling, the new look will make you feel good to just sit and enjoy it.

Here are just a few reasons you might think twice about installing artificial grass.

1. It’s expensive!

About 10-30 times more than live turf grass, depending on the style of artificial turf you choose.

2. It’s extremely hot during the summer months and can easily be as hot as asphalt.

Your children or pets will not be able to play on it until it is cooled down. To do that, you will have to soak it with many gallons of cold water. WHAT? Isn’t that why you considered it in the first place? To “save on water”, but now you have to soak it WITH water just to “enjoy” using it? Now that doesn’t make much sense…does it?

3. It’s difficult to keep clean.

The easiest way requires large amounts of water to wash away the dirt. That water will run straight into the storm drains and NOT back into the aquifer, opposite the water you would use on live turf. Or you can choose to vacuum it, but since it’s such a huge investment, you’ll want to make sure you maintain it properly by having it professionally cleaned.

4. You trade one for another. Maybe you’ll save a little on your water bill, but not as much as you can save on your electric bill by having LIVE turf in areas surrounding your home or office.

The lawn area (approx. 1000 sq.ft. per home) in a block of eight average homes has the cooling effect of about 70 tons of refrigerated air-conditioning. One ton of refrigerated air-conditioning will cool approximately 400 sq.ft. of interior space. The average home requires about 3-4 ton of cooling capacity to perform its function. Artificial turf will not cool your homes exterior or help with your electric bill in any way.

5. Artificial turf isn’t environmentally friendly as you think.

REAL turf absorbs all types of airborne pollutants, such as soot, dust and carbon dioxide, as well as noise. Artificial turf does not.

IMPORTANT ARTIFICIAL TURF ARTICLES

Please read the articles below, prior to purchasing and installing artificial turf

Fake grass has a drawback: It gets too hot, study says
The Las Vegas Sun

(Real) Turfgrass to replace artificial turf at Toronto’s BMO Field
Athletic Turf News

TFC (Toronto’s BMO Field) could be on (real) grass by start of next season
The Toronto Star

Artificial Turf: Does it Increase the Risk of Sports Injuries?
Hospital for Special Surgery, New York, NY

At City’s Synthetic Fields, High Lead Levels Fuel Debate
The New York Times

Synthetic Turf Playing Fields Present Unique Dangers
University of Missouri

Artificial Turf Cleaning Tips
Yep, you really DO have to clean it!

Reporter questions plan to irrigate synthetic fields
Athletic Turf News

Water the sod immediately after installation until it’s completely soaked, but not puddled ABOVE the sod. Initially, apply at least 1″ of water so the soil underneath is very wet. Pull back a corner of sod to verify your watering is penetrating the underlying soil. Make sure the water is getting to all the areas of your lawn and no corners or edges are missed by your sprinklers. Weather conditions will dictate the frequency and amount of water to apply. It is critical to keep the underlying soil moist for two weeks or until your turf is well rooted.

As the turf becomes more established, begin deeper, less frequent water applications to promote deeper rooting and hardier turf.

Be sure your new turf grass has enough moisture to survive hot, cold, dry and windy conditions. Generally speaking, as the root system grows deeper, irrigation frequency should be reduced.

GENERAL RULES FOR ESTABLISHING NEW TURF

WEEK 1 – 7AM + 11AM + 2 PM

If the soil remains moist and absolutely no turf wilt is observed, eliminate the 11:00 watering

WEEK 2 – 7AM + 2PM

If the soil remains moist and absolutely no turf wilt is observed, eliminate the 2:00PM watering

WEEKS 3 & 4 – 7AM

If the soil remains moist and absolutely no turf wilt is observed, water every other day.

Eventually taper back to once every two or three days. Adjust according to weather and season – water more frequently during warm or dry weather. Turn off water if it’s windy, as the water evaporates at a much higher rate. Do not water sod between 6 PM and 4 AM, as this can promote turf disease.

FOOT TRAFFIC

During the first couple of weeks after installation, keep traffic off your newly planted turf grass as much as possible. Your new turf grass needs time to firmly knit the roots with the soil. If you have properly watered your newly-laid turf grass, it will be moist and soft. Traffic will create indentures and destroy your smooth grade.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If DRY SPOTS appear in the lawn during the afternoon, the irrigation time should be increased. If dry spots persist, an irrigation uniformity problem is likely, and an additional sprinkler head may be required.

BROWN LAWN areas are most commonly caused by one of three types of problems: Improper watering, burn, or disease. Check for watering and burn problems first before treating for disease.

BROWN SPOTS caused by a burn will result from pet urine, over-fertilization, gasoline spills, etc. Burn spots are distinguished from other types of damage by their “total kill” straw-yellow color. If a burned area is thoroughly flushed with water in the early stage of damage some recovery may occur. Otherwise reseeding or sodding may be necessary. However, with bluegrass, if you are patient, the area will fill itself in. It will just take some time. With fescue, overseeding or re-sodding will be necessary, as it will NOT fill itself in.

To check for LACK OF WATER use a screwdriver or knife to probe the brown areas of your lawn as well as the healthy green areas. If the brown area is more difficult to penetrate then a lack of water is likely. This is usually the result of poor sprinkler spacing or sprinkler malfunction. Saturate the area with a hose as soon as possible and continue to provide supplemental water until the sprinklers are repaired.

EXCESS WATER can cause turf to die by suffocating the plants roots or rotting its crown. This generally occurs in low spots or shady areas. Check for muddy soil, algae crusts, or slimy rotting grass. To correct problems in the shade, reduce irrigation time to that area or replace the sprinklers with lower volume heads. Low spots must either be raised or set up to drain. A French drain might need to be installed, which can be done by local landscape contractor.

DISEASES are almost always related to heat and moisture. However, poor irrigation practices can also promote disease development. The longer moisture stays in the turf foliage the greater the disease risk. Therefore, do not water at night, (between 6 pm and 4 am) since the lawn will stay wet until morning. It is best to irrigate between 6 am and 8 am. Early morning watering reduces evaporation.

If you have real grass for them to play on, the answer is yes! But if you have Xeriscape, imitation grass, or just plain dirt for a play surface, then expect to raise “couch potatoes” who want to stay inside and play video games for the entire summer.

It’s your choice. Put something beautiful in your yard! Your family…and give them REAL grass to play on. Grass is the safest natural play surface on earth!

Call us today to get started, so your kids will stay active over the summer!

If DRY SPOTS appear in the lawn during the afternoon, the irrigation time should be increased. If dry spots persist, an irrigation uniformity problem is likely, and an additional sprinkler head may be required.

BROWN LAWN areas are most commonly caused by one of three types of problems: Improper watering, burn, or disease. Check for watering and burn problems first before treating for disease.

BROWN SPOTS caused by a burn will result from pet urine, over-fertilization, gasoline spills, etc. Burn spots are distinguished from other types of damage by their “total kill” straw-yellow color. If a burned area is thoroughly flushed with water in the early stage of damage some recovery may occur. Otherwise reseeding or sodding may be necessary. However, with bluegrass, if you are patient, the area will fill itself in. It will just take some time. With fescue, overseeding or re-sodding will be necessary, as it will NOT fill itself in.

To check for LACK OF WATER use a screwdriver or knife to probe the brown areas of your lawn as well as the healthy green areas. If the brown area is more difficult to penetrate then a lack of water is likely. This is usually the result of poor sprinkler spacing or sprinkler malfunction. Saturate the area with a hose as soon as possible and continue to provide supplemental water until the sprinklers are repaired.

EXCESS WATER can cause turf to die by suffocating the plants roots or rotting its crown. This generally occurs in low spots or shady areas. Check for muddy soil, algae crusts, or slimy rotting grass. To correct problems in the shade, reduce irrigation time to that area or replace the sprinklers with lower volume heads. Low spots must either be raised or set up to drain. A French drain might need to be installed, which can be done by local landscape contractor.

DISEASES are almost always related to heat and moisture. However, poor irrigation practices can also promote disease development. The longer moisture stays in the turf foliage the greater the disease risk. Therefore, do not water at night, (between 6 pm and 4 am) since the lawn will stay wet until morning. It is best to irrigate between 6 am and 8 am. Early morning watering reduces evaporation.

Stockosorb® is a man-made water-absorbing polymer that is designed to improve the capability of soils and other growing media to retain water and plant nutrients. It can be used for the same reasons you would use peat moss mixed in the soil…to retain water near the roots.  Once in contact with water, it will absorb 10 times it weight in water.

How to Apply to Your Soil

We recommend that you add it to your tilled soil AFTER you add your amendments, using a spreader, and rake it in at about 2″ depth (closest to root level). Do not add water to it until you have laid your sod.

How Stockosorb® Works

Once the Stockosorb® crystals come in contact with water, they will capture water that would have otherwise been lost into the aquifer. They will expand to hold up to 10 times their weight in water and keep the captured water at the root level of the sod. This means that the next time your grass is thirsty, it will “drink” from the water absorbed by the Stockosorb® first, allowing you to save on water usage.

Stockosorb® crystals remain in the soil for 7-10 years (dependent upon soil conditions, etc).

You can also use Stockosorb® when planting trees, plants, in potted plants and gardens, and even in your indoor plants.  Just be careful, as a little amount goes a long way!

Please call us for any more information.

We began by rolling a strong plastic netting material out on the ground to allow the grass to grow up through, just like our competitor does, but we found that this was not a good thing.  Yes, it does allow for harvesting in about 8 months, but there is no strong root development.  A strong root system, in New Mexico, at our altitude, requires at least 18 months development, and most times…24 months, prior to harvesting.  With the netting it’s possible to seed with about 100-125 pounds of seed per acre, since the netting replaces the need for a mature root structure, but we plant 400 pounds of seed per acre…forget about the netting…and allow our sod to develop the way Mother Nature intended!

We, of course, still grow our great Kentucky Blue Grass, “the Cadillac of grasses,”  and we plant Scott’s Premium grade seed; which will germinate about 94-96% of the seed planted.  There are about 1.2 million seeds per pound…NO, we didn’t count them, however, someone at Scott’s apparently did! So, now that “Spring” has “Sprung” and you are getting all excited about growing the nicest lawn in your neighborhood, we’d be proud to have our sod represent your hard work.

May we be your sod provider?

Fridays and Saturdays are busy order days for us, We are only able to bring in a certain amount of sod per day.  We ask that if you want your sod for pickup on Fridays or Saturdays, please plan a little more in advance and try to call 48-72 hours ahead of time.

If ordering for delivery, we ask that you order 24-48 hours ahead of time.

IN RARE CASES, we have had customers cancel an order into Albuquerque, so you are welcome to call us  to check, if you are needing a small amount.

If you are in desperate need for sod, and cannot wait the 24-48 hours, you may visit our farm (M-F 9:30-3:30, Sat 8:00-11:00) and we will cut it fresh for you when you arrive (1 pallet – 455 sqft – takes about 7-10 minutes to cut, so you won’t be waiting a long time).